Catalina Island Guide

Just twenty-two miles off the Southern California coast, a rocky island rises out of the Pacific with a past as colorful as its cliffs. Santa Catalina Island — known simply as Catalina — has been a film set, a celebrity retreat and a Wrigley family estate, and today it's a refreshingly unglitzy getaway where the main mode of transport is golf carts and the biggest thrill is a zipline over the sea. It's a Mediterranean-flavored escape that feels a world away from Los Angeles, yet is only about an hour by ferry. The crossing resets the clock — salt spray on the railing, the mainland shrinking behind, and by the time Avalon’s cove comes into view the day already feels different.

Avalon: The main town

The charming seaside town of Avalon hugs a horseshoe-shaped harbor. It's walkable, car-light (most people use golf carts), and lined with restaurants, boutiques and lodgings. The centerpiece is the landmark theater building (a historic movie palace and ballroom, never a gambling venue) — a red-tiled domed landmark; it housed a movie theater and a grand ballroom. Its art-deco interior is worth a tour. In the morning the harbor lies glassy behind a scatter of gulls, and the red-tile dome catches the first of the sun.

Two Harbors: The rugged west end

For a quieter, more outdoorsy experience, head to Two Harbors at Catalina's remote west end. This rustic village is a favorite for hikers, campers and paddlers, surrounded by unspoiled coves and the island's dramatic interior. The beachfront Harbor Sands offers furnished palapas for a relaxed day by the water.

Adventures to try

Catalina packs a surprising amount of adventure into a small island.

• Catalina Zipline Eco Tour — a two-hour, top-rated ride over Descanso Beach, starting 600 feet above the coast.
• Bison Expedition — hop an open-air Hummer into the rugged interior to spot American bison, descendants of a herd left by a movie crew in the 1920s.
• Undersea Sub Expedition — cruise five feet below the surface in a climate-controlled semi-submersible to see the marine reserve.
• Glass Bottom Boat — a near-century-old tradition exploring Lover's Cove Marine Preserve.
• Speed Boat & Sea Lion Tour — a high-speed run to Seal Rocks to spot dolphins and sea lions.
• Journey to Island's End — a backcountry Hummer tour over ridges up to 1,500 feet.

Points of interest

Beyond the tours, Catalina rewards exploration. The Catalina Museum for Art & History tells the island's story. The historic Catalina Country Club was built for William Wrigley's Chicago Cubs, and its golf course is one of the oldest west of the Mississippi — once home to the Bobby Jones Invitational. And the Wrigley Memorial & Gardens Tour offers exclusive access to the family's hidden ranch and restored DC-3 at the Airport in the Sky.

Where to stay

Catalina offers a range of lodging, from the hilltop Mt Ada (perched above Avalon Bay) and the central Hotel Atwater, to the beachside Pavilion Hotel and the historic Craftsman-style Banning House Lodge & Villas in Two Harbors. Each has its own character, and staying overnight transforms the trip.

Where to eat

Avalon's dining scene spans Descanso Beach Club (cabana cocktails by the sand), Avalon Grille (coastal California cuisine), the Bistro at the Atwater for coffee and pastries, the new waterfront Pier 24, and Flx Biergarten, the island's first biergarten.

Getting there

The Catalina Express ferry runs from Long Beach, San Pedro and Dana Point, taking roughly an hour. Private boats and helicopter transfers are also options. Note that most cars stay on the mainland — Avalon is best explored on foot or by golf cart, which is part of the island's charm. Stay for a dusk and you'll watch the lights come on along the water while the ferry's engine fades out of earshot — the mainland a world you no longer quite believe in.